In honor of accomplished cook

New Orleans recently lost a food icon, Tom Fitzmorris. He had never worked in a professional kitchen, although he was a very accomplished cook. He has written a couple of cookbooks. What made Tom special was that for over 50 years, he was the premiere New Orleans food critic. Where else except in New Orleans could you find a multi-hour radio show dedicated to the restaurant scene of the city? He was as New Orleans as someone could be having being born on Mardi Gras day.

As far as cooking is concerned, he often hosted charity dinners which he prepared himself. He was always willing to show his love for the local cuisine. I have two recipes of his today. They are both his take on very classic New Orleans dishes. The first is the traditional Monday staple, Red Beans and Rice. The second is his take on a dish created at Commander’s Palace, Trout with Pecans. Gather up your ingredients, and Let’s head to the kitchen!

Red Beans and Rice

1 pound dried red beans1/4 pound bacon or fatty ham

1/2 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped1 small onion, chopped3 ribs celery, chopped12 sprigs parsley, chopped4 cloves garlic, minced3 quarts water2 teaspoon salt1 bay leaf1 teaspoon savory

1/2 teaspoon black pepper1 teaspoon Tabasco1/4 cup green onion tops, chopped2 tablespoon parsley, chopped

Sort through the beans and pick out any bad or misshapen ones. Soak the beans in cold water overnight. When ready to cook, pour off the soaking water.In a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven, fry the bacon or ham fat till crisp. Remove the bacon or ham fat, and set aside for garnish (or a snack while you cook).In the hot fat, sauté the bell pepper, onion, celery, parsley and garlic until it just begins to brown. Add the beans and three quarts of water. Bring to a light boil, then lower to a simmer. Add the salt, bay leaf, savory, black pepper, and Tabasco.Simmer the beans, uncovered, for two hours, stirring two or three times per hour. Add a little more water if the sauce gets too thick.Mash about a half cup of the beans (more if you like them extra creamy), and stir them in into the remainder. Add salt and more Tabasco to taste. Serve the beans over rice, cooked firm. Garnish with chopped green onions and parsley.

Trout with Pecans

Pecan Butter

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons toasted pecans

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1-1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Sauce

2 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup shrimp or fish stock

1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 sticks (16 tablespoons) butter, softened

Trout

2 cups flour

3 tablespoons salt-free Creole seasoning

2 tablespoons salt

2 eggs

1/2 cup milk

Six 6-8-ounce trout fillets

1 cup clarified butter

8 ounces toasted pecan halves

To make pecan butter: Place pecan butter ingredients into a food processor or blender. Process to a smooth puree and set aside.

To make the sauce: Stir flour and 2 tablespoons of water together in heatproof bowl to a smooth paste. Bring stock, Worcestershire sauce, and lemon juice to a light boil in a small saucepan. Whisk about a cup of hot stock mixture into flour paste. Then gradually pour flour mixture back into saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring constantly with the whisk. Whisk in softened butter, a tablespoon at a time. Keep sauce warm.

Combine flour, Creole seasoning, and salt in a wide bowl. Beat eggs with milk in another wide bowl.

Dust trout lightly with the seasoned flour. Pass it through egg wash and then dredge it once more in seasoned flour.

Heat half of clarified butter in large skillet over medium-high heat until a sprinkling of flour sizzles in it. Add half of fillets and sauté, turning once, until golden brown, 3-4 minutes. Transfer fillets to a warm serving platter and keep warm. Repeat the process with remaining clarified butter and trout.

Spread pecan butter over trout, sprinkle with roasted pecans, and top with sauce.

I grew up collecting Tom’s reviews. I still have copies of every guide that he put out as well as his two cookbooks. I often read them for ideas for recreating restaurant dishes. New Orleans has definitely lost a treasure that will never be duplicated. Until we meet again Tom!